Sony A6400 (16–50mm) Cheat Sheet

Written By Sneha Mukherjee

Landscape Photography

  • Mode: Aperture Priority (A) or Manual – control depth-of-field and exposure. Set aperture first for sharpness.

  • Aperture: ~f/8–11 (landscape “sweet spot”) to maximize sharpness/DOF. Stop down for greater DOF; avoid extremes (f/22+ softens, f/1.4–5.6 blurs foreground).

  • Shutter: On tripod, use slow speeds as needed (seconds). Handheld: ≥1/(focal length) rule (≈1/50 s at 50 mm).  If no tripod, keep shutter ≥1/60–1/100 s to avoid blur. 

  • ISO: Use base ISO 100 for best image quality.  Only raise ISO if absolutely needed for exposure.

  • Focal: Use wide end (16–24 mm) for broad vistas. Zoom moderately (24–35 mm) to include foreground interest. Avoid heavy tele (50 mm) which narrows view.

  • AF Mode: AF-S (Single-shot) or Manual – focus ~1/3 into scene or on distant subject. Use small AF point/central AF for precision. (Manual-focus infinity is fine for static distant scenes.)

  • Drive: Single or 2 s timer – avoid camera shake. Use self-timer or remote shutter release if on tripod.

  • Stabilization: If handheld, enable OSS (Optical SteadyShot) on the 16–50. If on tripod, turn OSS Off to prevent blur. 

  • Notes: Use a sturdy tripod/level camera. Consider bracketing or HDR for high-contrast scenes. Check histogram/Live View. Lens sharpest mid-aperture – prioritize aperture then shutter. 

Portrait Photography

  • Mode: Aperture Priority (A) or Program – control depth-of-field. Let camera pick shutter and ISO. (Manual mode can work too if comfortable.)

  • Aperture: Wide as possible: kit lens max f/3.5 at 16 mm (use longer focal for portrait geometry), or f/5.6 at 50 mm. Lower f-number for subject isolation. Example: outdoors try f/4–5.6 on the long end.

  • Shutter: Fast enough to freeze subject motion: typically ≥1/100 s (50 mm eq. on APS-C) or faster. Use the “double focal length” rule: e.g. 50 mm→~1/100–1/160 s. If subject is moving, increase shutter.

  • ISO: Start low (100–400). Let camera raise ISO if needed, but be mindful of noise. The A6400 handles up to ~3200–4000 fairly well, but try to stay below that if possible.

  • Focal: Longer end (30–50 mm) gives flattering perspective and background blur. Zoom in (50 mm) for headshots; 24–35 mm for environmental portraits (mind distortion at very wide angles).

  • AF Mode: Real-time Eye AF on the A6400 – it constantly tracks eyes for pin-sharp focus.  Use AF-S (Single-shot) for posed/steady subjects, or AF-C (Continuous) if subject moves.  Flexible Spot or Center-AF area aimed at the subject’s face is ideal.

  • Drive: Continuous L/Continuous H if shooting action/children to catch decisive moments; Single-shot for static poses.

  • Stabilization: Keep OSS on if handholding (at f/3.5–5.6, a slightly slower shutter can be handled). Use a monopod or tripod for static groups.

  • Notes: Focus on the eyes! Position subject well-lit (natural light or soft flash) and use portrait orientation. Leave headroom/composition space. For extra blur, crop tightly or step in closer.

Street Photography

  • Mode: Aperture Priority (A) – quick control of aperture while camera handles exposure. This lets you concentrate on composition.

  • Aperture: Medium (~f/5.6–8). StreetSnappers recommends f/8 for good DOF. Smaller aperture (f/11–16) if bright conditions and lots of layers. Avoid extremely wide apertures (f/3.5–4) unless you want very shallow focus.

  • Shutter: Fast: set a safe minimum shutter (e.g. 1/125–1/250 s). StreetSnappers uses 1/200 s min. If moving/low light, use Auto ISO with a 1/125–1/200 s floor to prevent blur. (As a rule, try ≥1/(focal length) or better.)

  • ISO: Auto ISO range ~200–3200 (day).  Let ISO rise for dark scenes rather than slow the shutter. StreetSnappers sets Auto ISO 200–3200 with 1/200 s floor. In practice, stay as low as possible for quality, but allow up to ~3200.

  • Focal: Mid-range (24–35 mm on APS-C ≈ 35–50 mm FF) for natural look and quick framing. 16 mm for close, dramatic scenes; 50 mm for more isolated shots or details.

  • AF Mode: AF-C (Continuous) for moving people; AF-S (Single) for stationary subjects. Always enable Face/Eye-detection if shooting people – A6400’s Real-time Eye AF works in many situations. Use Flexible Spot or Expand AF area so camera focuses on your chosen subject. 

  • Drive: Continuous burst (CL/CH) to capture fleeting moments. Single-shot if holding camera to eye and composing more carefully.

  • Stabilization: OSS On to help at slower speeds (especially if panning). Consider a fast prime (though kit has no prime) or imagine a hidden tripod – keep steady.

  • Tips: Keep camera ready (no fiddling!). Zone focus (pre-focus) is an option with small apertures. Blend into scene; patience is key. Use Exposure Compensation on the fly for contrasty street light.

Low-light / Indoor Photography

  • Mode: Manual (M) or Aperture Priority (A). Manual gives full control; in A-mode set a safe minimum shutter/ISO in the menu. Avoid full Auto mode (it may push ISO very high).

  • Aperture: As wide as possible: kit’s max (f/3.5 @16mm, f/5.6 @50mm). Use lowest f-stop to gather light and blur background. (If lens f/2.8 is available, even better.) In low light, opening up is priority. 

  • Shutter: Fast enough to avoid blur: at least 1/60–1/125 s for handheld. For portraits indoors, target ~1/100–1/200 s. Remember the rule: shutter ≈1/(2×focal length) or faster for sharpness (e.g. 50 mm→≥1/100 s). Use tripod or stabilize if you must go slower.

  • ISO: Raise ISO as needed for exposure, after aperture and shutter are set. Start at 400–800 and increase (e.g. up to ~3200) if scene is too dark. Try to keep ISO ≤3200–4000 on A6400 to control noise. In Manual mode, set Auto ISO upper limit (e.g. 3200) and a minimum shutter (e.g. 1/60 s).

  • Focal: Use what suits the scene. 16–24 mm for wide room shots, 50 mm for isolated portrait indoors. Longer focal may need higher ISO or faster shutter.

  • AF Mode: AF-S is fine for still subjects; AF-C if people move. Face/Eye AF can work if light allows. In very low light, consider manual focus or Focus Magnifier for precision.

  • Drive: Single-shot or 2 s timer to avoid shake. Use self-timer (2s or 10s) if on tripod to eliminate shutter-jitter.

  • Stabilization: Keep OSS On when handheld (it helps at slower speeds). On a tripod, turn OSS Off. Use a tripod or monopod for sharp shots at >1/60 s.

  • Tips: If possible add external light (flash, lamp). Use RAW and noise reduction in post. If capturing static scenes (night cityscapes), switch to manual bulb or long exposure. Keep camera steady: brace elbows, lean on something.

Video Shooting (Vlogging / Cinematic / Casual)

  • Mode: Manual (M) or Shutter Priority (S) is preferred. In Manual, set shutter/aperture yourself; in S-mode fix shutter (camera picks aperture). Avoid full Auto for consistency.

  • Framerate: Commonly 24p or 30p for natural motion. For slow-motion use S&Q mode (60p or 120p in camera).

  • Shutter: Follow the 180° rule: shutter ≈2× framerate. E.g. at 24p use 1/50 s; at 30p use 1/60 s. (1/100 at 50p, 1/250 at 120p, etc.)

  • Aperture: Wide open (kit ≈f/3.5) for maximum light and shallow DOF (cinematic blur). If too bright, add ND filter or close down aperture with ISO/lighting adjustments.

  • ISO: Use lowest practical ISO: set to Auto with low ceiling or Manual low (e.g. 100–800). In general, “lowest ISO possible” for clean footage. 

  • Focal: Vlogging: wide end (16–24 mm) to fit yourself and background. Cinematic: vary – use 50 mm end for tighter shots or creative framing. For casual, any focal works (auto-zoom, etc.).

  • AF Mode: AF-C (Continuous) in movie mode. Use Face/Eye detection (Real-Time AF works in video too) to keep subjects sharp. Disable AF speed smoothing for faster response if chasing focus. Manual focus + focus peaking is often used for cinematic footage.

  • Stabilization: Turn OSS On for handheld or use a gimbal/tripod. The A6400 has no IBIS, so for smooth pans, use steady hardware (gimbal, monopod, shoulder rig).

  • Drive: N/A for video (video record mode). But for handheld, use a sturdy grip or rig.

  • Vlogging Tips: Flip-up screen for framing. Keep camera at eye level or use chest mount for dynamic feel. Use an external mic on hot-shoe or connector.

  • Cinematic Tips: Lock exposure/white balance to avoid flicker. Use a flat picture profile if color grading. Consider 4K for extra cropping or downsampling. Plan shots (storyboarding).

  • Casual Tips: In Auto or Program modes, the camera handles exposure (ISO auto, etc.) – fine for quick clips. Use smooth pans and avoid shaking. Sound: use onboard mic carefully or attach smartphone mic.

Sneha Mukherjee

I’m Sneha Mukherjee — and for the past three years, I’ve lived and breathed words. As an SEO Content Writer and Digital Marketing Specialist, I’ve helped SaaS, AI, tech, and eCommerce brands cut through the noise with search-optimised content that doesn’t just rank — it converts, builds trust, and tells a story. I’ve collaborated with global agencies, platforms like Wavel AI, and built this very website you’re on — in just four hours — to showcase the work I believe in.

But lately, I’ve found myself on the edge of something new.

I’m transitioning into bid writing — drawn by its blend of strategy, persuasion, and high-stakes storytelling. It’s a shift that feels both exciting and natural. After all, good bids, like good SEO copy, are about understanding your audience, showing impact, and crafting a clear, compelling narrative that wins.

Away from the keyboard, I’m also learning the art of photography. I’m not a pro — not yet — but I’m learning, lens by lens. I shoot with a Canon 4000D and four trusted lenses: the 18–55mm kit, a 75–300mm telephoto, a 10–18mm wide-angle, and a sharp little 24mm. I recently added a GoPro Hero 12 to my setup — perfect for Scotland’s wild weather and rugged backdrops.

I photograph wildlife and nightscapes — capturing the raw stillness of stags in the Highlands and the star-streaked skies over Glencoe. My camera is teaching me patience, detail, and how to tell a story without saying a word.

Right now, I’m open to full-time opportunities in content writing, brand storytelling, technical SEO, and bid writing — and I’m always up for creative collaborations across the UK and Europe.

If you’re looking for someone who can bring clarity to complexity — in words or through a lens — I’d love to connect.

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